Right now, in February, fresh yellow local cauliflower (El Zahra Al Baladiyeh) has taken over vegetable markets, filling the streets of Palestine with its vibrant color. Farmers line the streets, their carts overflowing with cauliflower heads. Yes, it is cauliflower season! This delicious vegetable plays a key role in many Palestinian dishes like Maqloubeh, Emshat, Zahra Bi Laban, and more.
Originally from Surif, a town in the northern Hebron region of southern Palestine, Um Essam is a farmer and dear friend who currently resides in Bethlehem. She recalls how things were long ago. Back then, people couldn’t just plant whatever they wanted, whenever they wanted. Instead, the local cauliflower was sown at the end of summer, grew through the winter, and was harvested between February and March. By then, the scent of frying cauliflower would fill the small homes of the town, as families prepared Emshat or Maqloubeh. To preserve its goodness beyond the season, people would pickle it, ensuring it could be enjoyed for months to come.
Every Friday, Um Essam’s family would travel to Surif, where she had a small house. While the grandchildren explored the forests filled with almond, plum, and olive trees, the uncles would gather wood and light a fire. The moment they brought out a pot and filled it with oil, everyone knew something special was about to be cooked. Emshat, freshly fried and golden, was served hot — always best when hand-fed by a loved one.
Over time, the roads to Surif became inaccessible due to increasing movement restrictions on Palestinians imposed by the occupation. Today, Um Essam can no longer spend long hours in the kitchen preparing meals for the entire family. However, her generosity and love for Palestinian cuisine remain unchanged. She continues to share her delicious recipes and stories, ensuring that the legacy of Zahra Al Baladiyeh and traditional Palestinian food lives on for generations to come.
PHSL is an interactive art and agriculture project that also aims to start conversations, exchange knowledge, and share the stories of food and farming that have been buried away, waiting to sprout like seeds.
